Since moving to Sydney, I have had my fair share of foodie experiences. In fact, I must admit that I get bit excited towards the end of September when the Sydney Morning Herald releases their program of culinary events that make up Good Food Month, or as they renamed it last year, Sydney International Food Festival. Personally I prefer the old name, but I digress. Anyhow, I know a lot of my friends consider my enthusiasm above average for fellas in my demographic. So when the opportunity arises to go for dinner with someone I always like to consider trying a new option. Sydney has so many eateries it'd be shame not to take advantage of them. Last week I was faced with the same dilemma. So I went through my usual motions of searching online for places. Then I remember a Mexican restaurant on Crown Street in Surry Hills. I did a quick search and found the Sydney Morning Herald had recently reviewed the place. Now I respect the opinion of SMH's food critics. Especially considering I own a few copies of the annual Good Food Guide they release. However, Terry Durack, you let me down starting with the lead of your article, "Some things I don't get.....Then there is Mexican food. There are only three or four meals in a day - why on earth waste one of them on Mexican?"
Mr. Durack's comments made me a bit unnerved. Firstly, if he "doesn't get" Mexican, they why was he sent there to bloody review the place?! Food critics' opinions are sought after because they are supposed to have an established knowledge of culinary stylings in order to proffer a reputable opinion. Strike two came in the second paragraph, "We all speak the gringo lingo (burrito, taco, nachos..." No, no you don't, nor does a majority of Sydney. I recall being in line at a burrito joint, and the person in front of me ordered a "fa-j-eye-tah." Besides sounding mildly vulgar, the person reminded me that Sydney is very new to the mexican cuisine. (btw: it is pronounced "fa-he-tah") When Doritos' only competition is with Old El Paso on most supermarket shelves, you can be sure you're nowhere near the Rio Grande. When I first came to Sydney there were no burrito joints and mexican establishments were few and very far between. However, in the past couple years Mexican has snuck over the border while Sydney wasn't looking and has made a new life for itself in Australia. Being here to see this progression has been interesting; and as many new places have opened their doors, I have been there to walk in. A handful of them have left me hankering for the summers I spent eating in Houston, but a few blips have popped up on my radar. Here's my top five...
Guzman y Gomez - basically these guys paved the way for the small burrito joint here in Sydney. With their first location being in Newtown, they were really onto something when they started. After their first year they revamped their menu a bit (which I'm still not sure was for the better) and expanded to a few other locations. They're not bad, but I find I need to add extra jalapenos, cilantro, and salsa to get their burritos to where I like them. Good thing they offer all of these extras at the counter for free.
Flying Fajita Sisters - Glebe has almost developed it's own version of Little Mexico City on one block of Glebe Point Road with Baja Cantina, San Churro, and this place. While I think Baja actually opened first, Flying Fajita Sisters made a smart move when they started $3 Taco nights. They got people in the door including yours truly, and I left pleased. A few of my colleagues and I agree that the ropa vieja option is the way to go. Yes, I am aware what that means in Spanish, but I promise it's really good. And the place inadvertently offers free entertainment in their "wall of pain." It's comprised of various hot sauces that range from something that adds a pleasant zing to the stupidly hot. I highly recommend keeping an eye on the overconfident guy who grabs the hottest option to show he's got cojones. The change of face after he downs a mouthful will bring a smile to yours. Browse the selection if even just to read the names. "Slap My Ass and Call Me Sally" was a crowd favourite the last time I went.
Cafe Pacifico - this restaurant has been hiding on Riley Street since before the big burrito boom in town. I recommend this place for atmosphere as well as their over-indulgent portions. They seem to really enjoy catering for large groups out to have a big night. If you don't mind walking out with a "food baby", they have a combination platter that let's you see the difference between a few dishes.
Mad Mex - as far as all the places for a quick burrito and a bottle, this is my pick. You custom order your burrito. For instance, I'm a no rice, black beans, half barbacoa, half carnitas, with jalapenos, picante salsa, and cheese. I've gone through a few buy-ten-get-one-free punch cards on that order alone. The only downside is that getting a place to sit can be a bit tricky. I reckon this will be a reason a few people go around the corner to newly opened Zambrero. Don't get me wrong, Zambrero offers a very fresh tasting burrito for those wanting some a bit lighter, but the meat seasonings seemed a bit underwhelming. However, they get my tick of approval for not charging me an arm and a leg to get guacamole. I reckon if the Aussie dollar crashes we can start using avocados as currency.
Fiji Market - while not a restaurant, for those of you who have tried all the Mexican offerings of the city and still think it comes up short, you may have to resort to DIY. Since it is against several of my religions to rely on a sachet of taco seasoning to get you through, I go to this little market in Newtown. They've got a small selection of staples that will take it to the next level. I was visiting a friend in Erskineville on Sunday and walked 25 minutes out of the way to stop this place to stop up on tomatillos (which will make your homemade salsa amazing), achiote paste, chipotles, and adobo.
Now I realize some of you may not even know the difference between a mole and habanero. I am quite certain our previously mentioned SMH food critic doesn't, but that's ok. If Sydney keeps giving it a go, we might one morning wake up to a sunrise when the Mexican cuisine is of a higher regard. Then again if I hear another "la" sound pronounced in the word quesadilla, you may have to make my mine a tequila sunrise.
PS I tried the place in question (Agave) in Terry Durack's review. It actually was not that good after all. I would've just appreciated he spare us the diatribe about the cuisine as a whole. I would recommend it for drinks and maybe a couple entrees though (especially the flauntas). The mains left myself and my partner feeling a bit bland.
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